Question:
I have two very large lantanas and a bougainvillea that I would like to move to a new location. When is a good time to do that?
Answer:
Early next spring would be the best time to transplant such plants. If we have a winter like the last one, they will both most likely freeze to the ground. Regardless, I recommend that you cut them back to the ground in early February and move them to their new location at that time.

Question:
Can a Thyrallis plant be grown in a pot?
Answer:
Yes, it surely can. I recommend that the pot be at least 14 inch wide and has a premium potting mix for adequate drainage.

Question:
How do I discourage squirrels from eating my newly planted irises and other bulbs?
Answer:
The best way is to lay some chicken wire or welded wire fencing material over the beds. The squirrels will not dig through either.

Question:
I’m deciding to go with perennials from now on. I’m getting old and can no longer replant large plants very well. I want the plants to stay there year after year; and, would like plants that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Answer:
Some perennials you might consider are Blue Plumbago, Firebush (Hamelia patens), Turks’ Cap, Mexican Petunia (Ruellia spp.), Hummingbird Bush (Anisacanthus wrightii), Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), and Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii).

Question:
I have an apple tree that is about 10 feet tall. I have watered it regularly thru the drought but the top of it is turning brown and dying. Can you tell me what I should do? I don’t want it to die!
Answer:
The brown top is indicative of lack of sufficient deep and consistent watering. Hopefully, we will continue to get good rainfall, but if we don’t, you should water it deeply from the trunk to out past the drip line at least every two or three weeks. I don’t think that the lower portion will die but you may need to prune out the top portion if it does not leaf out next spring. Also, the tree will be losing its leaves soon for the season.

Question:
We have an old tree which apparently many years ago had a large branch removed near the base of the tree. At the time, the cut was sealed with a mortar or concrete cap. Over the years the mortar has broken away leaving the area subject to retention of dirt and moisture. Should I again place a concrete cap over the area or is there a better way? I believe leaving the area holding dirt and water will eventually rot the main tree.
Answer:
If possible flush out the dirt and debris from the hole. It should be well healed by now. If the hole holds water, you should (if possible) drill a hole up into the cavity from the bottom to allow it to drain. Concrete is now frowned upon as a cavity filler. If the cavity lends itself to it, you can use the Styrofoam filler that you can buy in aerosol cans but it is not necessary.

Question:
My asparagus plants seem to be growing quite well but they are tall and bushy. I planted them last spring so this is their first year. Since harvesting is best in the second year, should I trim the plants down and, if so, how far down? Should I wait until the first frost? I have them covered with compost and leaves, the mounds are about a foot high. Should I make the mounds higher or just keep adding leaves?
Answer:
Hopefully you planted the crowns in a ditch eight inches or so deep. If so the mound is sufficiently high. After the first hard frost or freeze, cut all of the ferns back to the ground. If the roots you planted were one year old roots you can begin harvesting next spring.

Question:
We bought two Pride of Barbados plants about two months ago. We want to know when and how to prune them? The plants are about five foot tall.
Answer:
I recommend that you cut the Pride of Barbados (Caelsalpinia pulcherrima) to the ground in the early spring before new growth commences. Repeat this process every spring.

Question:
When & how deep do you plant Mountain Pink (Centaurium beyrichii) seeds?
Answer:
You should sow the seed now (October-November). Rough up the surface of the soil by lightly raking, sow the seed on the surface of the soil and water in. You should mix the seed thoroughly with a small quantity of coarse sand and spread over the area that you want to cover.

Question:
I’m going to pour a concrete slab for a garage and I’ve got to cut down 3 oak trees (rather big). My question is, if I use a stump grinder and take the stumps down below the ground level a foot or so, will the trees attempt to grow back under the slab and give us problems? Or is it best to go to the expense of hiring someone to dig out the complete stump and root.
Answer:
Your plan should be okay. I recommend that after you grind them down that you then paint the exposed part of the root with a herbicide containing Tricopyl, such as: Green Light Cut Vine and Stump Killer or Ortho® Max® Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer Concentrate. Use these according to the label instructions.

Question:
Toward the end of August, the leaves on our native elm tree by our driveway (Garden Ridge area) turned brown and are falling off. Now woodpeckers have pecked off almost all the bark from the tree. The tree is filled with holes in the trunk, about 6″ diameter tree. I have seen some active insect burrowing going on in the trunk. Do you think the tree is dead and will have to be replaced? If I need to replant, what would you suggest?
Answer:
I doubt that this tree will survive and even if it does, it will struggle to make an acceptable tree. I recommend that you remove it and plant either a Chinkapin Oak (deciduous) or a Mexican White Oak (semi-evergreen).

Question:
I have a sagebrush (Artemisia Tri-something) in a large clay pot. It looks kind of puny and spindly. Any tips for growing these? I dug it up last year in the Panhandle, and it was blooming. It didn’t bloom this year. It’s in almost full sun.
Answer:
The Big Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata) is not a compact grower when in the ground in its preferred habitat. Make sure that the potting mix is well drained, not over watered and that it gets lots of sun. Early next spring, before new growth commences, cut it back severely. This should cause it to be less spindly. You may also need to periodically cut it back during the growing season.

Question:
How do I know when to pick my pumpkins? They are small sugar pumpkins that are in various stages of orange.
Answer:
Your pumpkins will be ready to harvest when they have a deep orange or orange-yellow color, a woody stem and a rind hard enough to resist scratching with your thumbnail. They can be left on the vine until after the first frost without damage to the fruit. They should be harvested if temperature below 30° is predicted. They will continue to develop color off the vine.

Question:
One of our trees was eaten by something that bored holes all over and left sawdust on the ground. They eventually killed the tree. Now I’m seeing a Texas persimmon close to this dead tree.
Answer:
The tree that died with all of the borer holes was severely stressed before the borers moved in. This stress was probably caused by insufficient moisture due to the drought conditions. I would suspect that this is the same with the Persimmon. The cure is to keep the trees healthy by occasional watering and perhaps some fertilizer.

Question:
I have read that you get more “bang for your buck” if you plant zoysia in the fall while it’s dormant because you get the benefits of spring rain and it will cover quicker than later planted grass-like a “hungry bear coming out of hibernation”. Is this true for El Toro zoysia in the hill country?
Answer:
Those terms sound like marketing ploys to me. I prefer to wait until after danger of freezing temperatures is past and then sod. Usually sod can be safely laid in South Texas anytime during the year that you can find it for sale. However, I am leery about laying brown grass with the anticipation that it will come up green the next spring. That coupled with the likelihood of a hard freeze which could damage or kill the roots makes me want to wait.

Question:
Are bluebonnets deer resistant? I have a choice of planting bluebonnet seeds now or planting plants (4″ pots) now. Which will result in the better plant? I assume the plants will die back, but will the roots be stronger when they come up in the spring?
Answer:
They are somewhat deer resistant, but not deer proof. It depends on how hungry your deer are. I recommend that you plant the bluebonnet seeds, as deer are very adept at finding newly installed plants and will most certainly give them a try. Bluebonnet plants do not die back in the winter. They remain as small rosettes and then they start to grow to their mature size in the early spring.

Question:
I purchased a Texas Lilac vitex in the spring. I understand that I should cut it back in late winter, however, I see on the internet that some fashion the lilac into a tree. So is it that important to totally cut the plant back or just trim it into the shape, I prefer in late winter? I am a little confused!
Answer:
The article at http://www.plantanswers.com/vitex.htm which advocates cutting the plants back was written for those who prefer to have more blossoms on their vitex plants. However, you can prune your plant with no detriment to the plant. Look for the varieties named Shoal Creek or Montrose Blue.