2007 November Weekly Q and A’s

Question:
Is this the correct time to plant blue plumbago?
Answer:
Blue plumbago is root hardy in this area, if given enough time for establishment. However, if it hasn’t had time to get properly established before the first freeze it may be killed. I recommend that you wait until next spring to plant it, especially if we do not have a mild winter.

Question:
I live in the Texas Hill Country and want to transplant some 10 year old red tip photinia shrubs? Will they survive this?
Answer:
Possibly yes. Hedge them back half way and dig a root ball with a minimum of at least 12 inches in diameter. Ideally this should be done in January-February. However, since these plants grow so fast and are so susceptible to a fungal disease called Entomosporium Leaf Spot, I recommend that you just plant new nursery plants which will not be stressed by the potential transplanting.

Question:
Is it possible to take store bought houseplants (I am assuming they are not organic) and make them into organically grown plant? I planted them in organically rich soil and am using only organic products, but I would like very much so to try to make these beautiful plants chemical free if at all possible.
Answer:
I think that it would be safe to assume that these plants have been treated with chemical pesticides at some point in their production life and/or fed with non-organic fertilizers. However that should be of no concern. Organic gardening refers to the manner in which plant life is grown, using non-organic pesticides or fertilizers. In the context of “organic gardening” you can consider that these plants are 100% organic as long as you continue your regimen of caring for them.

Question:
I put my houseplants outside for the summer but now I want to bring them in the house. How can I get rid of any bugs that may be on them or in the dirt?
Answer:
For those insects that might be on the plant, you should spray with an insecticide that is labeled for houseplants. Visit your favorite nursery for such an insecticide. They can recommend one that you can mix with water to spray and also to drench the soil with to kill any insects that are in the soil.

Question:
I used to “live in the country,” but over the last 30 years the city has moved out to meet me. My soil is sandy and I would like to plant a privacy hedge to decrease noise and sight transfer from my new neighbors. I am hoping for something very thick and tall, approx 10-15ft. Do you have any suggestions?
Answer:
My favorite screening plant for this height requirement would be Xylosma.

Question:
Our Xylosma plant has grown too tall! A tenant has cleared out the lower part and I want to trim off 4 feet from the top and let the lower part fill out, so it can screen off the near neighbor. Will that hurt the shrub? It is filling out at the bottom in places already but the trimming would take it to about 4 feet instead of 8 feet. Is that too much?
Answer:
Yes, you can do as you describe. It does have thorns so be careful.

Question:
We have a female Chinese Pistache tree that has already lost most of its leaves and berries. Normally this happens before November after its leaves turn a beautiful color. The tree is about 10 to 12 yrs old. Can you share what might be happening to it and what we might do to make sure we do not loose it?
Answer:
As I am sure you know this has been a stranger then normal year weather wise with very little rain in 2009 until September and then lots of rain thru July 2010, then nothing in August with a deluge in September. I think that the tree is just letting its disapproval of such be known. I recommend that you spread a high nitrogen fertilizer such as 19-5-9 or 18-6-12 (commonly available at most nurseries/garden centers) around the drip line of the tree around late February of next year at a rate of one pound per inch of trunk diameter. Water it in well. Then any time we go without rain for a month, give it a good deep watering. It should leaf out fine next spring.

Question:
I have seeds for Pride of Barbados and Red Yucca. I want to grow seedlings and plant them in the spring. What is the best way to get them to grow into seedlings?
Answer:
Unless you have a green house, I recommend that you wait until spring (March-April) to sow your seed. For both of these plants, soak the seed for at least 24 hours in warm water. Sow them in 4 to 6 inch pots in a good, moist, well draining potting mix. Press the seed into the soil about 1/2 inch deep. Place the pots in a shady, protected location. When you see growth, you can water and start fertilizing. It will probably be the next spring before they are ready for transplanting into the soil.

Question:
When should I prune my fig trees?
Answer:
Figs require very little pruning. Prune in late winter (February) just before new growth begins. Make smooth clean cuts, close to the lateral branch, and do not leave any stubs. To control the fig tree’s height, prune by opening the bush, removing dead wood and suckers from the trunk and main branches, then cutting off drooping branches. This pruning method produces easier picking, larger fruit, and better control of the tree’s vigor.

Question:
I planted Cordia boissieri (Texas olive) in my garden and it’s thriving. Now I’m getting fruit from the tree; they are grape-sized, waxy and soft. Is this fruit edible (by humans)? Should it be handled like Olive, Olea europaea and fermented or cured with lye or brine to make it more palatable?
Answer:
This plant is in no way related to the edible olive that we know and love to eat. To my knowledge, the Cordia boissieri is not edible by humans. There are reports that jelly made from the fruit is used in Mexico as a remedy for coughs & colds.

Question:
Because of the toxicity of the Pride of Barbados plant, would it be unwise to plant a vegetable garden near one of these trees/shrubs? What if I put a screen over the vegetables? Or is the soil already contaminated from previous leaf/seed droppings?
Answer:
I do not even know that the Pride of Barbados (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) is toxic; maybe the seed, but I cannot even find definitive information on that. However, this has no bearing on your question. There is no way that they can contaminate the soil or have any effect on your vegetables. Enjoy the beauty of the plant and eat your vegetables without concern because neither is going to affect the other.

Question:
I am growing a hyacinth bean vine. I want to plant the seeds from the plant. Do I need to remove the seeds from the pods and plant them individually or plant the pod?
Answer:
Treat them just as you would a garden bean. Take the distinctive black & white seed from the pod and plant them about 1/2 to 1 inch deep in the soil where you want them to grow. You will need to wait until next spring after danger of freeze or frost to plant them. Save the seed in an airtight container in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant them. An empty pharmacy pill bottle will work fine.

Question:
I bought a Japanese maple tree in June in a one gallon pot. A few leaves were brown with curled edges and now the new leaves are brown curled and are wilting. The leaves have lacy skeletal remains. Help! I have tried a systemic on the tree with no changes.
Answer:
Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) and South Texas just don’t go together. They absolutely do not like our hot weather, alkaline soil, and alkaline water. They must have a moist, acid soil with little if any direct sunlight.

Question:
Are bluebonnets deer resistant? I have a choice of planting bluebonnet seeds now or planting plants (4″ pots) now. Which will result in the better plant? I assume the plants will die back, but will the roots be stronger when they are come up in the spring?
Answer:
They are somewhat deer resistant but not deer proof. It depends on how hungry your deer are. I recommend that you plant the bluebonnet seeds, as deer are very adept at finding newly installed plants and will most certainly give them a try. Bluebonnet plants do not die back in the winter. They remain as small rosettes and then they growing to their mature size in the early spring.

Question:
I purchased a Texas Lilac vitex in the spring. I understand that I should cut it back in late winter, however, I see on the internet that some fashion the lilac into a tree. So is it that important to totally cut the plant back or just trim it into the shape I prefer in late winter? I am a little confused!
Answer:
The article at http://www.plantanswers.com/vitex.htm which advocates cutting the plants back was written for those who prefer to have more blossoms on their vitex plants. However, you can prune your plant with no detriment to the plant. Look for the varieties named Shoal Creek or Montrose Blue.

Comments are closed.